John Hanson and his wife own the Logging Camp Ranch where we camped before moving northward into Medora. We were welcomed warmly, as has been the case many times before. But, the trick was getting there from Marmarth.
There were no written directions from Marmarth to the Logging Camp Ranch because the roads were not marked, so we went in usual caravan style following Del, the trail boss, who knew the way. However, the lead rig did not realize that we had lost the last half of the caravan. So, Jim signaled for the trailers ahead to stop and we waited until the lagging trailers caught up.
It took quite a while for those last trailers to catch up since they were caught behind someone who decided to repack their trailer right at the time we were all pulling out. This 20-mile trip took probably an hour and a half on winding, unmarked dirt roads before we reached the freshly mown field where we would be camping for the night. It was a great spot with the little Missouri River winding nearby and hills of the outskirts of the Badlands for people to ride on. As always, every location is a little different.
John Hanson told me that this field had at least 3 species of sage growing in it along with the grasses they baled for hay.
If you listen closely and give them a chance, the ranchers will express the love they have for their way of life and the passion they feel that the small ranchers must be able to maintain the life they love. It's tough but they have to be creative, just as other small business owners must be, to keep their business profitable so they can maintain their lifestyle. Ranching and farming do not make it for them so many are investigating guest ranching for people not only from the Eastern states but from Europe to come and experience the cowboy way of life.
That evening two sisters came and sang songs about the local way of life. They hooked up their electric guitar and microphones right there in the middle of the field and sang their hearts out. The older sister, Diane, was a regular performer in Marmarth at the local Mistic Theatre. She had also ridden with our group for a couple of days. It was a fun evening. And very different than any other.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Marmarth, North Dakota
Just in case you wondered, two of the mini Australian Shepard puppies were "adopted" by members of our group. They are seven weeks old and as cute as can be! That puts the number of newly acquired puppies up to 4 since the beginning of the ride.
Marmarth is a very small town in ND, which almost looks deserted as you drive by on US85. Several of the buildings are abandoned, there is a convenience store and cafe, an Auto Museum/ ice cream store and rodeo arena, where we spent 2 nights. But, if you look more closely and pay attention to the signs there is an outstanding steak house which would rival any you have been to where you live. It is a very high class continental restaurant with a wonderful menu and dessert tray to die for.
Another point of distinction for this small community is the discovery of dinosaur bones in the nearby badlands. Their resident paleontologist, Tyler Lyson, who has lived there all of his life, began his passion of searching for dinosaur bones when at the age of 6, he found a fossilized jawbone. It sounds like he had a wise mother who, as her son was growing up, would go out into the badlands with a lawn chair and book as her son learned how to search for bones. When he was 16 he discovered an intact dinosaur mummy with fossilized skin, which he owns. The dinosaur is leased out in Japan. Ten years later at the age of 26, he is a doctoral student at Yale. He still has the jawbone in a shoebox, under his bed that he found at the age of 6.
He also recently discovered a formerly unknown species of turtles in these ND badlands. Fossils, of course.
There is a new dormitory in town for the people who come to help in his work. I think it is a fascinating story. Keep Marmarth, ND in the back of your mind. I wouldn't be surprised that Tyler Lyson will find many more new discoveries.
Marmarth is a very small town in ND, which almost looks deserted as you drive by on US85. Several of the buildings are abandoned, there is a convenience store and cafe, an Auto Museum/ ice cream store and rodeo arena, where we spent 2 nights. But, if you look more closely and pay attention to the signs there is an outstanding steak house which would rival any you have been to where you live. It is a very high class continental restaurant with a wonderful menu and dessert tray to die for.
Another point of distinction for this small community is the discovery of dinosaur bones in the nearby badlands. Their resident paleontologist, Tyler Lyson, who has lived there all of his life, began his passion of searching for dinosaur bones when at the age of 6, he found a fossilized jawbone. It sounds like he had a wise mother who, as her son was growing up, would go out into the badlands with a lawn chair and book as her son learned how to search for bones. When he was 16 he discovered an intact dinosaur mummy with fossilized skin, which he owns. The dinosaur is leased out in Japan. Ten years later at the age of 26, he is a doctoral student at Yale. He still has the jawbone in a shoebox, under his bed that he found at the age of 6.
He also recently discovered a formerly unknown species of turtles in these ND badlands. Fossils, of course.
There is a new dormitory in town for the people who come to help in his work. I think it is a fascinating story. Keep Marmarth, ND in the back of your mind. I wouldn't be surprised that Tyler Lyson will find many more new discoveries.
Friday, August 14, 2009
The Stearns Ranch
Every ranch we have camped on has been an experience of hospitality and this is no exception. Susie and Kelly Stearns heard we were coming to their area and emailed Best of America and asked if we could stay at their ranch.
We arrived in the afternoon and before you know it we were being invited over to their barn for a roast beef dinner like you've never tasted before. It was so delicious!!! There were salads and wonderful desserts. We are trying to collect all the recipes.
The Stearns invited all of their neighbors and asked a country band called "the Wagoneers" to come and entertain for the evening. They were very good and invited Del to sing with them.
One of their neighbors brought over a six week old litter of miniature Australian Shepard puppies for everyone to admire and hopefully purchase. I'm not sure if she was able to sell any, but they were certainly admired.
Everyone was so nice and proud of their ND heritage and their ranches and family histories. A couple of the ladies I spoke with told me about two ranches, which will be 100 years old in 2010, just like Furnival's Flowers and Gifts. (I just happened to mention it to them.)
We will be in the North Dakota Badlands and the lands of Teddy Roosevelt before long.
We arrived in the afternoon and before you know it we were being invited over to their barn for a roast beef dinner like you've never tasted before. It was so delicious!!! There were salads and wonderful desserts. We are trying to collect all the recipes.
The Stearns invited all of their neighbors and asked a country band called "the Wagoneers" to come and entertain for the evening. They were very good and invited Del to sing with them.
One of their neighbors brought over a six week old litter of miniature Australian Shepard puppies for everyone to admire and hopefully purchase. I'm not sure if she was able to sell any, but they were certainly admired.
Everyone was so nice and proud of their ND heritage and their ranches and family histories. A couple of the ladies I spoke with told me about two ranches, which will be 100 years old in 2010, just like Furnival's Flowers and Gifts. (I just happened to mention it to them.)
We will be in the North Dakota Badlands and the lands of Teddy Roosevelt before long.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
After the Black Hills
Since leaving the Black Hills and leaving the busy tourist towns, we are back in the smaller towns and villages where we can meet people.
We were rained in on Charlie and Jim Davis' ranch, north of Belle Fourche, for a couple a days, in some of the slipperiest mud you may have ever seen. But, they were very gracious. Charlie made some of the most delicious cinnamon pecan rolls and zuccini bread I have ever had. I hope to get her recipes.
Right now we are staying in Camp Crook, a town of 55 with surrounding ranches. Our singer, Del Shields gave a free concert last evening, which was very well attended by the towns people. The riders always attend. We can never seem to hear enough of his singing. Camp Crook has a wonderful restaurant, which had a featured prime rib special last night to rival any prime rib you have ever had.
Today a few of us who did not ride, took a drive over to Montana to "Capital Rock" in Custer National Park. It's a rock formation that is supposed to look like the nation's capital. It probably used to look a little more like it before some erosion took place but it is very white and basically the right shape. It was a nice drive through some of the Montana country.
We will be moving on to two more ranches before we reach N Dakota. One of the ranchers hired the a country band called, "The Wagoneers", for our entertainment one night at dinner. Isn't that nice?
We were rained in on Charlie and Jim Davis' ranch, north of Belle Fourche, for a couple a days, in some of the slipperiest mud you may have ever seen. But, they were very gracious. Charlie made some of the most delicious cinnamon pecan rolls and zuccini bread I have ever had. I hope to get her recipes.
Right now we are staying in Camp Crook, a town of 55 with surrounding ranches. Our singer, Del Shields gave a free concert last evening, which was very well attended by the towns people. The riders always attend. We can never seem to hear enough of his singing. Camp Crook has a wonderful restaurant, which had a featured prime rib special last night to rival any prime rib you have ever had.
Today a few of us who did not ride, took a drive over to Montana to "Capital Rock" in Custer National Park. It's a rock formation that is supposed to look like the nation's capital. It probably used to look a little more like it before some erosion took place but it is very white and basically the right shape. It was a nice drive through some of the Montana country.
We will be moving on to two more ranches before we reach N Dakota. One of the ranchers hired the a country band called, "The Wagoneers", for our entertainment one night at dinner. Isn't that nice?
Black 'N Blue
It seems that quite a few people heard that I fell off my horse through Nancy K's blog. She reported that we had a catastrophe! Cindy Conant fell of her horse...
Well, to put your mind at ease, the word catastrophe was a bit of overkill. I'll try to think of a better word as we go.
We had been around so many motorcycles by then, I didn't think one more would be a big deal, but Jim yelled from behind that 2 motorcycles we coming from the back. They came up real slow, but I tried to get around a corner before they reached us, so I cut the corner short by going through a ditch. No big deal. We have ridden through many a ditch on this ride. Only this ditch had a deep hole which was hidden by deep grass. So, needless to say neither Gables nor I saw the deep ditch. He went in the deep part and I flew off, skidding across the gravel road.
Yes, I got 5 staples in my head at the emergency room, which Jim has since taken out with his trusty staple remover. But, if you think you have seen black 'n blue, think again.
I think catastrophe would have been fractured skull and broken bones, but I appreciate Nancy's concern. And I definitely appreciate being in one piece.
Well, to put your mind at ease, the word catastrophe was a bit of overkill. I'll try to think of a better word as we go.
We had been around so many motorcycles by then, I didn't think one more would be a big deal, but Jim yelled from behind that 2 motorcycles we coming from the back. They came up real slow, but I tried to get around a corner before they reached us, so I cut the corner short by going through a ditch. No big deal. We have ridden through many a ditch on this ride. Only this ditch had a deep hole which was hidden by deep grass. So, needless to say neither Gables nor I saw the deep ditch. He went in the deep part and I flew off, skidding across the gravel road.
Yes, I got 5 staples in my head at the emergency room, which Jim has since taken out with his trusty staple remover. But, if you think you have seen black 'n blue, think again.
I think catastrophe would have been fractured skull and broken bones, but I appreciate Nancy's concern. And I definitely appreciate being in one piece.
Mt Rushmore and the Black Hills
One of the outstanding parts of our trip has been staying in the Black Hills. You can hear about the beautiful parts of our country but until you see it for yourself it is difficult to comprehend. Now, you have to understand that for the first 3 months of our trip we have either been in the desert or in the grasslands, which each have their own beauty. Then to come to the mountains covered with Ponderosa pines so thick they look black from a distance is a stark contrast.
We rode along the George R Mickelson trail which started in Edgemont, SD and ended in Deadwood, SD. It was built on an abandoned RR bed and is beautifully maintained by the SD State Parks department. Bicyclists and hikers from all over the country and all over the world come to use this wonderful trail through these beautiful mountains and valleys. The trails follow streams and wander through small villages. The silence was wonderful as we rode through these forests.
Part of the wonder of the silence was the presence in the towns of motorcycles, ever since we arrived in SD. The huge Sturgis motorcycle rally would commence on August 3 in the city of Sturgis with a presence of at least 500,000 cyclists arriving a week or two early. But, they were visiting and staying in Custer, Deadwood, Spearfish, Belle Fourche as well as Sturgis. The sound of motorcycles was constant, not unlike a Nascar race at MIS. Now that Sturgis is over the motorcycles have magically disappeared. But, the rally and all those motorcycles have been part of our trip.
Mt Rushmore was awesome. You can see pictures of the mountain sculpture, but until you see it in person you have no concept of it's magnitude and beauty. It was interesting to hear the story of it's making and how they chose the sculptor. There isn't much to do at Mt Rushmore except enjoy it's majesty.
Our friend Beth, from Colorado Springs, who visited us in Limon, CO, came up with a couple of her friends who had never been to Mt Rushmore, to visit the National Monument with us. It was great to see her again. And while she was here she not only petted the horses, she actually rode one!!! She's making real progress as a horsewoman.
So, in the Black Hills we progressed from the Plenty Star Ranch to Custer, Crazy Horse Rodeo Grounds, where we watched the light show from our trailer and Hill City. Just outside of Hill City we stayed in a campgrounds where they offered a chuck wagon dinner with entertainment. The group was called "The 3 Fiddlers" They were a family of 3 brothers, 1 sister and 1 brother's wife and they were all wonderful musicians. They took us through our country's history with music on fiddles, Celtic Harp, banjo, guitar, Penny whistle, hammer dulcimer, bass fiddle and Irish Drum. You should have heard those fiddles go.
We rode along the George R Mickelson trail which started in Edgemont, SD and ended in Deadwood, SD. It was built on an abandoned RR bed and is beautifully maintained by the SD State Parks department. Bicyclists and hikers from all over the country and all over the world come to use this wonderful trail through these beautiful mountains and valleys. The trails follow streams and wander through small villages. The silence was wonderful as we rode through these forests.
Part of the wonder of the silence was the presence in the towns of motorcycles, ever since we arrived in SD. The huge Sturgis motorcycle rally would commence on August 3 in the city of Sturgis with a presence of at least 500,000 cyclists arriving a week or two early. But, they were visiting and staying in Custer, Deadwood, Spearfish, Belle Fourche as well as Sturgis. The sound of motorcycles was constant, not unlike a Nascar race at MIS. Now that Sturgis is over the motorcycles have magically disappeared. But, the rally and all those motorcycles have been part of our trip.
Mt Rushmore was awesome. You can see pictures of the mountain sculpture, but until you see it in person you have no concept of it's magnitude and beauty. It was interesting to hear the story of it's making and how they chose the sculptor. There isn't much to do at Mt Rushmore except enjoy it's majesty.
Our friend Beth, from Colorado Springs, who visited us in Limon, CO, came up with a couple of her friends who had never been to Mt Rushmore, to visit the National Monument with us. It was great to see her again. And while she was here she not only petted the horses, she actually rode one!!! She's making real progress as a horsewoman.
So, in the Black Hills we progressed from the Plenty Star Ranch to Custer, Crazy Horse Rodeo Grounds, where we watched the light show from our trailer and Hill City. Just outside of Hill City we stayed in a campgrounds where they offered a chuck wagon dinner with entertainment. The group was called "The 3 Fiddlers" They were a family of 3 brothers, 1 sister and 1 brother's wife and they were all wonderful musicians. They took us through our country's history with music on fiddles, Celtic Harp, banjo, guitar, Penny whistle, hammer dulcimer, bass fiddle and Irish Drum. You should have heard those fiddles go.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
South Dakota
This past week we got quite a few new riders who will either be with us for one or two weeks. It makes for quite a different make up of the group overall. Yesterday I think we had 45 riders in all on a 14 mile day. It's hard to keep track of the new people. I can only imagine how it is for them to keep track of everyone's names.
Just South of Custer, SD we stayed at a very nice guest ranch called the Plenty Star. It was a tight squeeze for our 30 some trailers but we all fit. Isa and Jack were wonderful hosts and offered us a campfire each night which was a treat. Isa is an artist and showed us her artwork which she has also made into greeting cards.
The stay in Custer has been a change from all the other places we have been. It is a very busy place because of Mt Rushmore. There is lots of traffic, lots of touristy places to visit and lots of people, of course. But, we were just in time for their Gold Days parade, which we participated in. I think it was the seventh parade we have been in so far and probably the most impressive of the bunch.
Just north of Custer and Hill City we staying near a campground where they offered a dinner and entertainment, which we decided to take advantage of. The chuckwagon type dinner was delicious but the entertainment was the highlight of the evening. The group was called the "Three Fiddlers" It was a family group of 3 brothers, 1 sister and sister in law. They were wonderful musicians! They played music and told stories from the history of the founding of the country. Two fiddles, banjo, a bass fiddle, guitar, penny whistle, Celtic harp and hammer dulcimer and a unique kind of drum made up the group. They were wonderful!!! Anyone who missed it was sorry after they heard the reviews.
The ride is going well. There are tons of adventure riders here for this week and next, then we will be back to our regular group. You can tell that people are realizing that we are getting near the end of the ride. People are starting to look at maps and figuring out how to get home already.
This part of S Dakota is probably the most beautiful place we will be riding on the whole ride. This hundred some mile long George Michelson trail is a beautifully maintained trail that goes from Edgemont SD to Deadwood SD through the mountains and valleys of SD along streams and through small villages. The trail is made on an abandoned railroad bed. They don't allow motor vehicles on the trail, just hikers and bikers and horses. It goes through tunnels. And everyone has gotten spoiled with how nice it has been. This trail is maintained daily by the State Park system of SD.
We will be in North Dakota before you know it and in Teddy Roosevelt National Park. That should be pretty nice as well. Then come the ND badlands.
Wayne Pedigo's wife, Julie, and I went to the SD Badlands on our way to Wall Drugs one day. The Badlands are aptly named. They are desolate but actually beautiful.
Wall Drugs is famous so we had to go. It was a fun place to see. And I'm sure it made the town of Wall, SD survive. In the 1930's that little store survived by the brainstorm idea of advertising to travelers on the highway that they could stop in for free ice water. It saved their business and probably the town. Now it's a tourist stop and fun to go to.
Now we are in Deadwood, SD with half a million motorcyclists who are here for the annual motorcycle rally in Sturgis, SD. It sounds like a race track day and night. I'm sure the local economy is happy.
Just so you know, Wild Bill Hickok was killed in Deadwood and is buried here, along with Calamity Jane. Kevin Costner also had a museum here about the buffalo relating to the movie Dances with Wolves. And did I mention the casinos?
Has the end of July been warm where you are? Here in Custer and Deadwood it has been unusually cool. We have been wearing sweatshirts and jackets because unseasonable daytime temps have been in the 60's and down in the 40's at night. We will probably pay later.
Just South of Custer, SD we stayed at a very nice guest ranch called the Plenty Star. It was a tight squeeze for our 30 some trailers but we all fit. Isa and Jack were wonderful hosts and offered us a campfire each night which was a treat. Isa is an artist and showed us her artwork which she has also made into greeting cards.
The stay in Custer has been a change from all the other places we have been. It is a very busy place because of Mt Rushmore. There is lots of traffic, lots of touristy places to visit and lots of people, of course. But, we were just in time for their Gold Days parade, which we participated in. I think it was the seventh parade we have been in so far and probably the most impressive of the bunch.
Just north of Custer and Hill City we staying near a campground where they offered a dinner and entertainment, which we decided to take advantage of. The chuckwagon type dinner was delicious but the entertainment was the highlight of the evening. The group was called the "Three Fiddlers" It was a family group of 3 brothers, 1 sister and sister in law. They were wonderful musicians! They played music and told stories from the history of the founding of the country. Two fiddles, banjo, a bass fiddle, guitar, penny whistle, Celtic harp and hammer dulcimer and a unique kind of drum made up the group. They were wonderful!!! Anyone who missed it was sorry after they heard the reviews.
The ride is going well. There are tons of adventure riders here for this week and next, then we will be back to our regular group. You can tell that people are realizing that we are getting near the end of the ride. People are starting to look at maps and figuring out how to get home already.
This part of S Dakota is probably the most beautiful place we will be riding on the whole ride. This hundred some mile long George Michelson trail is a beautifully maintained trail that goes from Edgemont SD to Deadwood SD through the mountains and valleys of SD along streams and through small villages. The trail is made on an abandoned railroad bed. They don't allow motor vehicles on the trail, just hikers and bikers and horses. It goes through tunnels. And everyone has gotten spoiled with how nice it has been. This trail is maintained daily by the State Park system of SD.
We will be in North Dakota before you know it and in Teddy Roosevelt National Park. That should be pretty nice as well. Then come the ND badlands.
Wayne Pedigo's wife, Julie, and I went to the SD Badlands on our way to Wall Drugs one day. The Badlands are aptly named. They are desolate but actually beautiful.
Wall Drugs is famous so we had to go. It was a fun place to see. And I'm sure it made the town of Wall, SD survive. In the 1930's that little store survived by the brainstorm idea of advertising to travelers on the highway that they could stop in for free ice water. It saved their business and probably the town. Now it's a tourist stop and fun to go to.
Now we are in Deadwood, SD with half a million motorcyclists who are here for the annual motorcycle rally in Sturgis, SD. It sounds like a race track day and night. I'm sure the local economy is happy.
Just so you know, Wild Bill Hickok was killed in Deadwood and is buried here, along with Calamity Jane. Kevin Costner also had a museum here about the buffalo relating to the movie Dances with Wolves. And did I mention the casinos?
Has the end of July been warm where you are? Here in Custer and Deadwood it has been unusually cool. We have been wearing sweatshirts and jackets because unseasonable daytime temps have been in the 60's and down in the 40's at night. We will probably pay later.
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